Jumble Ventures: Barra Navidad and Acapulco

We're getting ready to depart Acapulco this morning. This post will be a rush job. JUMBLE's next destination is Huatulco to wait for favorable winds to cross the infamous Gulf of Tehuantepec. Our next post should be in 1 - 2 weeks in Puerto Chiapas, on the Guatemalan border.

JUMBLE left Tenacatita on 1/16/15 for a daysail of about 10 NM down to Barra Navidad with our anchorage neighbors on LUNGTA. Barra has a very sheltered, but shallow (5'-15') lagoon behind the town. This offered us a chance to spend a few more days relaxing, telling tales and playing Scrabble before parting ways with our friends on LUNGTA. We filled up on water and groceries in town. There is an honest-to-god French baker in Barra and he deliver bread and pastries to your boat. The best bread we've had in Mexico, where baguettes and sourdough just haven't caught on.

Las Iglesias

Ketch LUNGTA

Approach to Barra Navidad

Mixing of the waters at the harbor entrance

Town lagoon to the north

Barra Navidad to Acapulco

1/19/15 - 1/23/15
320 NM
90 Hours; 22 Hours on motor

JUMBLE departed Barra Navidad on 1/19/15 bound for Zihautanejo. We had made precious little progress south since leaving La Cruz. Most cruisers take their time and enjoy the many anchorages and towns along the 'Gold Coast' of mainland Mexico, but that wasn't our plan and we were itching to make some miles. The second day out, we decided to head for Acapulco instead.

Winds were light and variable, as expected, and the sea very calm. We averaged less than 3 knots under sail, but enjoyed a favorable current and motored for a few hours in the wee hours of the mornings, when it was 'cool' (80 degrees). Our biggest hazard was ship traffic. There was light traffic around Manzanillo, but the deep-water port of Lazaro Cardenas kept us on our toes for two nights. There were at least two freighters in sight on every watch and we had to make a major course change once (jibe the boat). It wasn't a close-call, we still had a mile or so between us. However, it was a moonless night, we couldn't figure out what he was doing and I doubt he saw us. We lost that game of chicken.

Navy vessel outside Manzanillo

Morning motoring

Freighter

Sunrise over water, a new thing for us

We didn't expect much from Acapulco, figuring it would be Cabo San Lucas x10. We were pleasantly surprised. It's the first (and only) major Mexican city we've visited. I can understand why many cruisers give it a pass. Finding a place to dock in the crowded harbor was a bit challenging. After we were chased off the dock at La Marina Acapulco (we're not the right sort of people), we found more welcoming accommodations at the Marina Santa Lucia. Med-mooring was challenging: JUMBLE won't back up in a straight line (full keel) and our windvane on the stern is very vulnerable to damage. We'll have to get used to this as we're heading for the Med someday.

The staff, particularly Santiago and Abel, is great. Also, an immigration official came down to the marina (immigration wasn't necessary as we've checked in already) and took the time to explain the fee structure and how to go about checking out of Mexico in Puerto Chiapas. We had experienced some unnecessary charges, outright graft, in San Jose del Cabo. Some transparency was much appreciated.

With Santiago's local knowledge and car, we found epoxy, fiberglass and paint supplies, plus the usual groceries and water. All done in a day versus the several days of bus rides, dinghy landings and water lugging we're accustomed to. The majority of boats in Acapulco are powerboats, but there are a good number of sailboats, especially at the yacht club and there was a race this weekend. Very different vibe from the other towns we've visited.

The dark side, which I didn't recognize until my first day out in town, is that Acapulco is going through a very rough period in terms of crime. As of 2014, it has the highest murder rate in Mexico. The sheer volume of heavily armed police on the streets was the tip off. We regret not learning more Spanish before this trip. There are many conversations we'd like to have, but we're hamstrung by our toddler Spanish skills. Next time.

Santiago gave us some fishing tips and a new lure. Abel and I made a gaff from some rebar and a shovel handle. Maybe our luck with the fishing will improve.